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Keeping Chameleons as Pets

By: Hsin-Yi Cohen BSc, MA, MSt - Updated: 22 Jul 2019 | comments*Discuss
Pet Chameleons Veiled Chameleons

First off it must be said: chameleons are not ideal pets. They are certainly not for the beginner and they really dislike being handled so for anyone hoping to have a more interactive experience with their reptile, steer clear of chameleons! They also have very specific requirements and can become very easily stressed if their needs are not met. Having said that, they are fascinating creatures and for the keen enthusiast who researches the species thoroughly and is willing to put in the time and effort, they can be a rewarding “pet”.

Types of Chameleon
Several species of chameleon are kept in captivity. Probably the best one to start with is the veiled chameleon which, although being large (up to 2 feet long) and therefore needing a larger enclosure, is much hardier than the others. The other popular species are Panther’s chameleons which can display a brilliant array of colours and Jackson’s chameleons which are smaller and need less space but are also much less hardy. Males of this species are especially recognisable as they have three horns on their heads, resembling a miniature triceratops.

Always choose a captive-bred chameleon: these animals are delicate enough without having the stress associated with wild-caught reptiles, which will also carry parasites and find it very difficult to adapt to captive conditions. In any case, in many countries, the capture and transport of wild chameleons is illegal and supporting the trade in endangered wildlife simply results in many animals dying horrible, slow deaths on their way to the pet stores.

Check the animal that you’re interested in: is it bright and active? Is it able to change colours? Does it have a well-fleshed body? Many people recommend getting a male chameleon for a beginner as they tend to be hardier and their nutritional needs are slightly simpler.

Unique features
Of course, the most striking thing about chameleons is their ability to change colour. This can occur in response to stress, excitement, lighting, temperature and the presence of other chameleons, as well as other influences. It is believed that the colour change helps with temperature regulation, communication with other chameleons and of course, camouflage. Most young chameleons are a dull grey or brown colour and can only manage slight changes in shade but once they pass 5 months of age, they can develop the ability to change to a wide range of colours, from black to green to turquoise to other brilliant hues. Usually, a dark coloured chameleon is showing signs of stress whereas a lighter coloured chameleon is in a happier mood.

Another distinctive feature of chameleons is their tongue, which they use to catch prey. This muscular weapon can extend up to 1.5 times the length of the body which means that the chameleon can catch insects very effectively, even from a distance. Still other unique features include their globular eyes which can move independently of each other, rotating like turrets, and provide them with a wide radius view of the world around them, thus helping with hunting and protection. In addition, their “split toes” – three each way – which allow them to get a good grip in the treetops where they live. Some species support this with a prehensile tail that also helps to keep a good grip on the branches.

Keeping Chameleons
Chameleons are such specialised pets that you must thoroughly research the species and its needs before deciding to take one on. Talk to reptile enthusiasts and experienced chameleon keepers. Certainly, a short guide like this one cannot do such a specialised animal justice and you should never get a chameleon simply based on the information you read here. However, here is a summary of its needs to give you an idea of what you might be letting yourself in for:
  • One of the most difficult aspects of chameleon care is providing a suitable environment as their natural habitat is arboreal and they live exclusively in trees. Thus, their enclosure needs to be extremely large, with enough foliage for climbing and for privacy. A minimum for larger chameleons is 3 feet by 3 feet by 4 feet tall but this really is the minimum and the larger the better. The branches themselves need to be of a range of diameters and most of the cage space should be filled with branches and/or live foliage. (Make sure the plants are not toxic as chameleons are known to eat some foliage). The sides of the cage should be made of vinyl-coated wire or poly mesh in order to prevent injury should the chameleon’s toes become caught.

  • Ventilation is important and make sure also that there are several basking spots among the branches, of different temperatures. The specific temperature and humidity requirements for each species can vary hugely so make sure you are familiar with the ranges of your particular type of chameleon. Natural sunlight is important if you want your chameleon to thrive but in practice, you may have to make do with full-spectrum UV lighting especially designed for reptiles. But even if you do use this as your primary source, try to expose the cage to some natural sunlight through an open window (glass will filter out the necessary UV radiation) or by placing the cage outdoors if the weather is suitable. (Always provide shade as well, to prevent overheating).

  • Chameleons are insectivores, although some species like some vegetation as well (e.g. lettuce, spinach, fruits, vegetables in small amounts) and some will also eat small invertebrates, such as slugs. Feeding a variety of insects is important - crickets, worms, wax moths, non infesting roaches – and all preferable gut-loaded with nutritious foods themselves (e.g. leafy greens, vegetables, fruit) prior to feeding. You can dust chameleons with a Vit D and calcium supplement. The calcium is particularly important if you have an egg-laying female.

  • Generally, chameleons will not drink from a water dish but get their moisture from water-droplets on the leaves. So you will need to provide water through the form of a drip system or by misting the enclosure regularly (at least twice a day). Even something as simple as some ice cubes at the top of the cage which melt slowly and drop water into the cage will do.

  • Chameleons are solitary and territorial and so will not relish a cage-mate. Males, in particular, will become very aggressive should they be placed together.
Most of all, remember that chameleons are extremely easily stressed so place the cage in a quiet spot, away from general traffic and family activity. Always move slowly when approaching the cage and observing the chameleon and despite the temptation, avoid handling them as much as possible. This is really a pet where the rewards come more from observation than from interaction.

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[Add a Comment]
hi everyone i have a concern with my panther chameleon called george he is just over 3 years old and around 6 months ago a growth started to appear on his top lip line ,it looked just like a small lump,in the beginning,now however it has grown prob little less round garden pea size,it now looks like a horny wart, i am due to go on holiday and he is going to a reptile shop for his holiday,i asked them if they had any clue what this could be and they didnot,so do anyone know what this could be and whether it can be treated etc is this contagious, as they will not have him if it is, by the way he is still eating drinking as normal.
george - 22-Jul-19 @ 1:55 PM
Iggy her real names Abigail Hoare I found the address back in jan and shared it across fb. The reason why trading have there address is because I found them. However do you know if they have been arrested yet?
watermelon - 20-Jul-19 @ 1:10 PM
I have previously posted about a pair of scammers based in Southampton UK called Peter Simmonds and Abigail Hoare (also called Peter Simmons, Louise Andrews, Louise Singleton) and how they rip people off either selling reptiles that are in poor health and die in a short time, or alternatively offering to send the reptiles by courier which they do never do. These scammers are extremely elusive but have finally been found. They live at 57 Ticonderoga Gardens, Southampton SO19 9HD. If these people have scammed you you should report it to Action Fraud and also Southampton Trading Standards department.
Iggy - 21-Mar-19 @ 6:05 PM
This post is further to my post of 20 January 2018 warning about a scammer calling herself Emma D based in Southampton who advertises on the Pets4Homes website. Her real name is Abigail Hoare but she also calls herself Louise or Louisa Singleton and more recently Louise or Louisa Andrews. She operates together with her partner Peter Simmonds who also calls himself Pete Simmons and there also is a website RPS Reptiles they operate. They are prolific scammers so DO NOT DEAL WITH THEM as they will rip you off and either not provide any reptiles at all or will provide sickly reptiles which dies after a few days. If you want to see the reviews on these two go to the Dodgy Reptile Sellers and Dealers closed group on Facebook and read the comments. The irony is that Louise Andrews is on this site as a member so no doubt monitors the site to read the comments posted about her and Pete Simmons.
Iggy - 28-Feb-18 @ 7:47 PM
"You can dust chameleons with a Vit D and calcium supplement." Please do not cover your chameleon in calcium powder...
Jachar - 20-Jan-18 @ 5:32 AM
This is to warn buyers of a scammer who calls herself Emma D based in Southampton and advertises various types of chameleons on the Pets4Homes website DO NOT BUY FROM THIS PERSON. She is a scammer and will ask you for money to be transferred upfront and she will say the chameleons will be sent by courier to you. She adds she will pay towards the cost of the courier. She then will use excuse after excuse to explain why the chameleons have not been sent. Her mobile number which is pay as you go and so is untraceable is 07766 186119. Please alert others to this scammer.
Iggy - 5-Jan-18 @ 10:21 AM
I found this post quite helpful as I'm looking to get a female panther chameleon this year and I know a bit about them but not enough I graduated level 2 animal care and I'm now studying level 3 animal science also growing up with animals (I'm 18) I know how to care and look after many pets I own a giant African land snail and some basics are the same as keeping a chameleon such as the heat and spraying the enclosure I also work as a sales assistant in swallow aquatics rayleigh be been there for a year I work on the reptiles, birds , mammals, cold water , tropical and marine sections and I've fallen in love with some panthers we have and I'm currently begging my mum to get me one and she said only if I research more about them as she's always hesitant to let me get new animals (don't know why) so I thank the creator/s of this information as it's helped me learn about how to look after chameleons but just to add I don't totally agree with the first statement of this post about the chameleons not liking to be handled as the ones I know enjoy the experience of being handled and loved as it helps with social behaviour and metal stimulation x
Meg - 22-Jun-17 @ 10:48 PM
How often would you feed a fully grown veiled chameleon. Would you feed a few insects every day or would you feed more insects every other day. I've been feeding every other day but he seems to be hungry all the time now. MUG
gull66 - 13-Dec-16 @ 4:29 AM
How often would you recommend to feed a fully grown veiled chameleon. Would you feed every day a few insects or every other day with more insects
gull66 - 6-Dec-16 @ 12:58 PM
gull66- Your Question:
My veiled chameleon seems to have gone off eating crickets.I was wondering if this is normal. He is still eating locusts

Our Response:
This is not an uncommon occurance and one reason is, your pet is probably fed up of them. If your chameleon's diet has not been varied, then like us all, we become bored of one particular type of food and remember, your lizard would never eat only one type of food in its natural habitat. Therefore, trying to vary its diet with the likes of additional mealworms, roaches, superworms or other suitable insects will help.
ReptileExpert - 2-Dec-16 @ 9:59 AM
My veiled chameleon seems to have gone off eating crickets.I was wondering if this is normal. He is still eating locusts
gull66 - 1-Dec-16 @ 12:45 PM
My female veiled chameleon laid eggs on 9/24/2015.It is 3/26/2016.It has been a little over six months since the eggs were laid, and they have not hatched.The eggs are fertile, I am certain of that.I am just concerned as to why they are taking so long to hatch.The owner of the store that I purchased my veiled chameleons told me that the eggs typically take 4-6 months to hatch, and online it said 150-200 days.It has been 184 days, and although it isn't past the 200 day mark, it worries me that it is slowly approaching it.Any advice at all would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! :)
JMIGS - 26-Mar-16 @ 8:40 PM
@Deo - Females are born with a pink and dark brown colour pattern which is more muted. While males can have blue spots on their cheeks and display more than two colours ranging from whites, browns, blues and yellows. You will have to do a more in depth online search for their feeding habits etc, as we can't be seen to be recommending any independent sites. However, there are a lot of very informative sites and specific organisations out there that can help you further with your care.
ReptileExpert - 9-Apr-15 @ 10:36 AM
Hey, Ilive in Polokwane South Africa. I just got a Panther's Chameleon and need toknow if it's a boy or girl, also expertise in their diet and where to get proper food for him around my area.
Deo - 6-Apr-15 @ 7:44 PM
hi , im really interested in having a pet chameleon what one would you reccomend?
liv - 8-Sep-12 @ 9:59 AM
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